Yokes
Fullness Beneath Yokes
Yokes provide a smooth, fitted anchor on the body while allowing soft gathers, tucks, or pleats in the panel below.
- Isolate the Yoke: Draw the desired horizontal or curved yoke seamline across the bodice or skirt sloper.
- Transfer Yoke Darts: Absorb or rotate any dart intake inside the yoke area so the finished yoke piece remains flat and smooth.
- Spread the Lower Section: Cut slash lines through the lower panel. Depending on the design:
- Parallel Spread: Adds even gathers or pleating across the entire width.
- Flared Spread (Hinged at Hem): Adds fullness concentrated at the yoke seamline while keeping the hem circumference narrow.
- Match Alignment: True the seamline and place control notches on both the yoke and lower panel to establish gather boundaries.
Below is a front bodice with a waist dart. The yoke line is defined in red in the first image. In the second image, the waist dart has been moved to the yoke line. Two slash points have been defined and spread 1.5" (38 mm) each, creating the Flared Spread described above. The fullness is shown with the grey triangles. The waistline remains fitted, with all fullness concentrated at the top seam where the bodice connects to the yoke. The separate yoke pattern piece is shown in blue.
Defined Yoke Separation
Dart Moved & 2 Slashes Opened at Yoke Line
Yoke with Fullness Sewn