Facings & Edge Finishes
Every edge of your patterns must be finished in some way. Most of them will be finished by sewing one edge to another, such as a side seam or center back seam.
Those pieces that are not seamed can be finished by folding over some of the fabric on the edge or making another smaller matching pattern called a facing. You can also accent the edge by adding cording, piping, binding or a casing. A waistband is a way that pants waistlines are finished, for example.
Facing
The purpose of a facing is to neatly finish and conceal the raw edge of a pattern piece.
There are primarily three types of facings:
- Shaped Facing
- Extended Facing
- Bias Facing
The type you choose will depend on the fabric and the stability of the pattern edge you are dealing with.
Shaped Facing
A shaped or fitted facing is most often chosen for necklines and sleeveless armholes. It is a separate pattern piece traced directly from the actual pattern outline itself so its shape and grainline match.
Don't forget that you have to finish the outer edge of the facing pattern, too. When drafting, keep in mind how that outer perimeter will be clean-finished or turned under.
Separate Pieces
Below is a front bodice draft. The neckline and armhole facings are shown. These types of facings vary in width from 1.5" to 2" (38 to 51 mm). The armhole and neckline are offset by 1.5" (38 mm) in this example.
It is common drafting practice to narrow the edge of the facing by 1/16" to 1/8" (2 to 3 mm). In this image both facings are dropped at the shoulder line by 1/16" (2 mm). The neckline facing is left as-is at center front, while the armhole facing is brought in 1/8" (3 mm) at the side seam. This draft adjustment prevents the facing from stretching out over time and rolling outside the garment edge.
All-in-One
You can also choose to combine facings that are very close to each other into a single pattern piece. In this image, the neckline and armhole facings are merged. The facing is brought in at both sides of the shoulder line by 1/8" (3 mm). It is also brought in 1/8" (3 mm) at the side seam.
If you want a more professional look, draft your back neckline facing slightly deeper than your front neckline drop. This hides all internal back seams when the garment is displayed on a hanger.
Extended Facing
An extended facing is created by extending the outer edge of the pattern a determined amount, allowing the fabric to fold back under on itself. Because it is drafted directly onto the main piece, it creates a facing without requiring a separate seam line.
Common extended facings include button extensions, which we cover in the Fastener Extension chapter.
Bias Facing
A bias facing is a strip pattern cut on the 45° true bias, which allows the fabric to bend smoothly around curves. Unlike a bias binding (which wraps around the raw edge and remains visible on both sides), a bias facing is drafted to turn completely to the inside of the garment so it stays hidden.
When drafting a bias facing, create a strip that is approximately 1.25" (32 mm) wide and 1/2" (12 mm) longer than the perimeter of the edge you are finishing to allow for joining seams.
Pattern Labeling & Interfacing
Facings almost always require interfacing to give the edge structure and prevent curves from stretching out. Rather than drafting separate pattern pieces for interfacing, you can handle this directly on your facing draft through clear labeling.
When marking your finished facing piece, include dual-use cutting instructions on the pattern text:
Example Pattern Label Front Neckline:
- Cut 1 on Fold – Fashion Fabric
- Cut 1 on Fold – Fusible Interfacing
Including both callouts on the same pattern keeps your pattern set organized and ensures you don't forget to cut the interfacing during garment prep.