Category: Sloper
Sizing: Standard or Custom
Adaptation: Modern Pattern Design and Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design
Drafting Difficulty: Beginner
Sewing Difficulty: Intermediate (multiple darts, sleeve cap ease)
Companion Patterns: 103-B1 Bodice Back, 103-S1 Bodice Sleeve
Visit the PatternMaker Pro Academy page for this pattern for more information.
If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern, please visit PatternMakerPro.
PatternMaker ProEach step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.
Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.
Movement / DirectionThe instructions use X and Y to define direction.
X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.
Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.
You'll note that there are measurements for Bust Ease and Waist Ease. The instructions account for these as total circumference ease (divided by 4 for the quarter pattern).
Edition: 0926V5
1Seam Allowance
Determine your seam allowances for the draft and set the defaults.
2Front Draft
Select: Draft Layer
Name: Front Draft
3Center Neck
This pattern drafts from the right towards the left. Place this point to the right.
4Center Waist
Base: 3Center Neck
Y: {Center Length Front}
5Full Length Ref Pt
Base: 4Center Waist
Y: - {Full Length Front}
6Across Ref Pt
Base: 5Full Length Ref Pt
X: - ({Across Front} / 2)
7Shoulder Ref Pt
Base: 5Full Length Ref Pt
X: - ({Shoulder Across Front} / 2)
8Bust Ref Pt
Base: 5Full Length Ref Pt
X: - (({Bust Front} / 2) + ({Bust Ease} / 4))
9Across Ref Line
Start: 6Across Ref Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set distance {Full Length Front}
10Shoulder Ref Line
Start: 7Shoulder Ref Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: Set Distance {Full Length Front}
11Bust Ref Line
Start: 8Bust Ref Pt
Direction: Vertical
Length: One Direction (down)
12Shoulder
From: 4Center Waist
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Front}
Line: 10Shoulder Ref Line
13Shldr Length Ref Line
From: 5Full Length Ref Pt to 7Shoulder Ref Pt
14Side Neck
From: 12Shoulder
Distance: {Shoulder Length}
Line: 13Shldr Length Ref Line
15Shldr Nk Perp
Origin: 14Side Neck
Vector: 12Shoulder
Distance: -({Neck Front} / 2)
Save & Line
16Ctr Neck Ref Line
Start: 3Center Neck
Direction: Horizontal
Length: One direction (left)
17Mid-Arm
From: 12Shoulder
Distance: 4" or 100 mm
Line: 9Across Ref Line
18Side Waist
From: 17Mid-Arm
Distance: {Shoulder Height Front} - 4" or 100 mm
Line: 11Bust Ref Line
19Armpit
Base: 18Side Waist
Y: - ({Side Length} - {Armhole Drop})
20Armpit CP Ref Line
Start: 19Armpit
Direction: Horizontal
Length: One direction (right)
21Bust Ht
Base: 4Center Waist
Y: - {Bust Height Front}
22Bust Apex
Base: 21Bust Ht
X: - ({Bust Apex Front} / 2)
23Dart P1
22Bust Apex, 4Center Waist
X: 22Bust Apex
Adjust X: 0.5" or 13 mm
Y: 4Center Waist
24Dart P2
Start: 23Dart P1
Vector: 18Side Waist
Distance: [Measure 4Center Waist to 23Dart P1 to 18Side Waist] - (({Waist Front} / 2) + ({Waist Ease} / 4))
Measuring the drafted waist less the actual waist to determine the dart width.
25Neck Int
15Shldr Nk Perp Line, 16Ctr Neck Ref Line
Save
26Bisect Neck
Select: 14Side Neck, 3Center Neck
Extend: 25Neck Int
Distance: 0.5" or 13 mm
27Armhole Int
10Shoulder Ref Line, 20Armpit CP Ref Line
Save
28Bisect Armhole
Select: 19Armpit, 7Shoulder Ref Pt
Extend: 27Armhole Int
Distance: 0.875" or 22 mm
29Outline Front
Parent: PMP
Name: Outline Front
Save & Switch
30Bust Dart
Apex: 22Bust Apex
Dart Leg Stay: 23Dart P1
Dart Leg Fold: 24Dart P2
Direction: 4Center Waist
Name: BustDart
31Armhole
From: 12Shoulder to 19Armpit
Curve Points: 2
Drag points so the armhole runs through the 17Mid-Arm and the 28Bisect Armhole. Don't drop below the 20Armpit CP Ref Line
32Shoulder Line
From: 12Shoulder to 14Side Neck
33Neckline
From: 14Side Neck to 3Center Neck
Curve Points: 1
Drag point down so the curve runs close to the 26Bisect Neck, but don't drop below the 16Ctr Neck Ref Line or left of the 15Shldr Nk Perp line.
34Center Front
From: 3Center Neck to 4Center Waist
35Waist Line
From: 4Center Waist to 23Dart P1
36Waist Line
From: 24Dart P2 to 18Side Waist
37Side Line
From: 18Side Waist to 19Armpit
38Center Front SA
*If you are going to cut the front on the fold:
Select: 34Center Front
Value: Custom Value
0 (zero)
39True Neckline
First: 33Neckline
Seam: 34Center Front
Second: 33Neckline
Seam: 34Center Front
Move the green curve point to create a smooth curve. Update to view changes.
40Label Pattern
Select a location for the pattern label.
Note the name of the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions.
41Hide Drafting
Hide Draft layer.
42Measurement Notes
You may choose to add the 31Armhole and 33Neckline curve measurements individually for later reference after printing.
43Grainline
*If you are not going to cut the front on the fold:
Vertical
Click near 34Center Front to place the top of the line.
Length: {Center Length Front} * 0.75
44Center Front Fold
If you are going to cut the front on the fold:
Select: 34Center Front
Other Side if outside pattern.
45Seam Allowance
Select: 32Shoulder Line, 33Neckline, 34Center Front, 35Waist Line, 30Bust Dart Ext Line 1, 30Bust Dart Ext Line 2, 36Waist Line, 37Side Line, 31Armhole
Other Side if inside pattern.
46Armhole Notch
Select: 31Armhole
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: 19Armpit
Type: Single
Notch should point to selected line.
47Hide Points
Hide all points that remain.
48Print
File > Export PDF
Choose the appropriate page size and print your final pattern.
