Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro
Notch Collar / Lapel

This lesson guides you through drafting a classic notched lapel collar.

While this draft requires care and precision, mastering it is a huge milestone. Working through the steps will build your confidence not just as a pattern drafter, but as a designer.

Once you’ve completed this piece, you’ll have the core skills to draft an endless variety of tailored collar designs.

(For deeper explanations, diagrams, and tailoring theory, visit the PatternMaker Pro Academy page.)

Page 2 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Notch Collar / Lapel
PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Preparation

Before jumping into the draft, take a moment to sketch out the look and proportions of your lapel. Decide on key design elements like the center front extension for your overlap, the break point location down the center front line, the notch placement and spread, and the overall lapel shape.

A quick way to create your sketching base is to open your front bodice sloper draft and export it. Export an SVG if you want to sketch digitally in a vector program like Affinity Designer or Illustrator, or export a PNG if you prefer to print it out and draw on it by hand. Once your sketch is complete, import it back in as a PNG or JPG background image to trace against.

The first few steps below will walk you through preparing and importing your reference image.


Page 3 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Notch Collar / Lapel
Shapes > Add Rectangle at Point

1Scaling Box
Select: FHBust Apex Front
Alignment: Top Left
Width: 2" or 50.8 mm
Height: 2" or 50.8 mm

Pro > Export SVG Image

2Export SVG
For vector sketch -
Select a place on your computer to save the SVG.
After you are done sketching, save your work as a PNG or JPG.

3Export PNG
For hand sketch -
File > Export PNG
Select a place on your computer to save the image.
After you are done sketching, save your work as a PNG or JPG.

Image > Import Image

4Import Image
Select your PNG sketch.

Image > ScaleImage

5Scale Image
Select: Your imported image
Follow the instructions using the scaling box on your sketch.
Width: 2" or 50.8 mm
Height: 2" or 50.8 mm
Drawn Width / Height: Make sure these are the same value

Image > Drag Image

6Drag Image
Drag your sketch over the top of your draft to line them up.

Page 4 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Notch Collar / Lapel
Lines > Offset Line

7Overlap Extension
Select: FKCenter Front
Distance: 1.5" or 38 mm (sketch)
Make sure it draws outside pattern.

Points > Point on Line/Curve

8Break
Select: 7Overlap Extension
End: Point at top
Distance: 6.5" or 165 mm (sketch)
Save & Split

Points > Add Point on Vector

9Side Nk Adj
Start: FBSide Neck Front
Vector: FCShoulder Front
Distance: 0.75" or 19 mm
Make sure it extends beyond FBSide Neck Front

Lines > Add Line

10Roll Line
From: 9Side Nk Adj to 8Break
Style: Dark Blue Dash

Points > Add Point on Vector

11Bk Ref 1
Start: 9Side Nk Adj
Vector: 8Break
Distance: Measure BSNeckline Back + 0.25" or 6 mm
Make sure it extends beyond 9Side Nk Adj

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

12Bk Ref 2
Origin: 11Bk Ref 1
Vector: 9Side Nk Adj
Distance: 0.5" or 13 mm
Save
Make sure the point is left of 11Bk Ref 1

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

13Bk Ref 3
Origin: 12Bk Ref 2
Vector: 9Side Nk Adj
Distance: 1.25 " or 32 mm
Save
Make sure the point is left of 12Bk Ref 2. This is the stand height.

Page 5 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Notch Collar / Lapel
Points > Add Point Perpendicular

14Bk Ref 4
Origin: 13Bk Ref 3
Vector: 12Bk Ref 2
Distance: 0.25" or 6 mm
Save
This is just below 13Bk Ref 3

Points > Add Point on Vector

15Bk Ref 5
Start: 12Bk Ref 2
Vector: 14Bk Ref 4
Distance: [Measure 12Bk Ref 2 to 14Bk Ref 4] + 0.5" or 13 mm
This extends beyond 11Bk Ref 1

Layers > Add Layer

16Sketch Pts Layer
Parent: PMP
Name: Sketch Pts Layer
Save & Switch

Points > Add Free Point

17Sketch Pts
Repeatedly use this tool to create points at all the places shown in the diagram above A - E

Lines > Add Line

18Sketch Lines
Repeatedly use this tool to create lines.
In Example: A-B, B-C, C-D, C-E

Curves > Add Curve

19Sketch Curve
In Example:
From: D to 8Break
Curve Points: 2

Layers > Mirror Layer

20Lapel Draft
Select: Sketch Pts Layer
Parent: PMP
Name: Lapel Draft
Replace: Lapel
Axis: 9Side Nk Adj, 8Break
Offset: 0

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Points > Merge Points

21Break Pt
Keep: 8Break
Merge: 8Break Lapel
At: Center
This is necessary for the seam allowance closed shapes later.

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

22Bk Offset 1
Origin: 14Bk Ref 4
Vector: 12Bk Ref 2
Distance: 1.5" or 38 mm
Save & Line

Curves > Add Curve

23Bk Curve 1
From: 22Bk Offset 1 to C Lapel
Curve Points: 3
Sweep through E Lapel and FBSide Neck Front. Keep it nearly straight from E Lapel to C Lapel.

Points > Add Point Perpendicular

24Bk Offset 2
Origin: 15Bk Ref 5
Vector: 12Bk Ref 2
Distance: 1" or 25 mm
Save & Line

Curves > Add Curve

25Bk Curve 2
From: 24Bk Offset 2 to B Lapel
Curve Points: 3
Create a smooth transition between through A Lapel.

Points > Point on Line/Curve

26Facing 1
Select: FRShoulder Line Front
End: FCShoulder Front
Distance: 2" or 50 mm
Save & Split

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Points > Point on Line/Curve

27Facing 2
Select: FLWaist Front
End: FICenter Waist Front
Distance: 2" or 50 mm
Save & Split

Curves > Add Curve

28Facing Curve
From: 26Facing 1 to 27Facing 2
Curve Points: 1

Lines > Add Line

29Waist Ext Line
From: 27Facing 2 to 7Overlap Extension point

Curves > Add Curve

30Lapel Curve
From: FBSide Neck Front to C Lapel
Curve Points: 1
Follow the 23Bk Curve 1

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

31Facing Pattern
Select: FRShoulder Line Front 1, 30Lapel Curve, C-D Lapel, 19Sketch Curve Lapel, 7Overlap Extension 1, 29Waist Ext Line,28Facing Curve
New Layer: Facing Pattern
Parent: PMP
Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

32Hide Layer
Hide the 31Facing Pattern.

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Lines > Add Line

33Center Back
From: 14Bk Ref 4 to 15Bk Ref 5

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

34Back Collar Pattern
Select: 33Center Back, 24Bk Offset 2 Line, 25Bk Curve 2, B-C Lapel, 23Bk Curve 1, 22Bk Offset 1 Line
New Layer: Back Collar Pattern
Parent: PMP
Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

35Hide Layer
Hide the 34Back Collar Pattern.

Lines > Add Line

36Under Center Back
From: 13Bk Ref 3 to 15Bk Ref 5

Lines > Add Line

37Under Line
From: 13Bk Ref 3 to 22Bk Offset 1

Layers > Copy Items to Layer

38Under Collar Pattern
Select: 36Under Center Back, 24Bk Offset 2 Line, 25Bk Curve 2, B-C Lapel, 23Bk Curve 1, 37Under Line
New Layer: Under Collar Pattern
Parent: PMP
Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

39Hide Layer
Hide the 38Under Collar Pattern.

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Layers > Copy Items to Layer

40Bodice Front Final
Select: FRShoulder Line Front 1, 30Lapel Curve, C-D Lapel, 19Sketch Curve Lapel, 7Overlap Extension 1, 29Waist Ext Line, FLWaist Front, FMDart Ext Front, FNDart Ext Front, FOWaist Front, FPSide Line Front, FQArmhole Front, FRShoulder Line Front 0, 10Roll Line, FUDart Stay Front, FVDart Move Front
New Layer: Bodice Front Final
Parent: PMP
Save

Layers > Layer Visibility

41Hide Layers
Hide the 40Bodice Front Final.

Layers > Select Active Layer

42Activate Layer
Switch to the 31Facing Pattern.

Layers > Layer Visibility

43Show Layer
Show the 31Facing Pattern and hide the others.

Layers > Flip Layer

44Flip Facing
Select: Facing Pattern
Flip: Left to Right
Point: D Lapel

Points > Move Point XY

45Roll Ease
Select: 28Facing Curve green curve point, 27Facing 2
X: 0.0625" or 2 mm

Points > Move Point XY

46Roll Ease
Select: 26Facing 1
X: 0.0625" or 2 mm
Y: - 0.0625" or -2 mm

Page 10 Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro - Notch Collar / Lapel

Final Pattern Detailing & Markings

Use the Layer Visibility tool to isolate and finish each pattern layer individually:

  • Back Collar Pattern (upper)
  • Under Collar Pattern
  • Bodice Front Final
  • Facing Pattern

Step 1: Seam Allowances & Trimming

  • Reduce outer collar and lapel edges to 1/4″ (6 mm) to ease turning.
  • Roll Ease: trim 1/16″ to 1/8″ (1.5–3 mm) along the outer perimeter of the Under Collar pattern so the seam rolls under out of sight.
  • Confirm 0 seam allowance on any edge designated as Cut on Fold.
  • Add standard seam allowances to garment construction seams (shoulder, side, neck).

Step 2: Notches & Alignment Marks

Add matching notches across all joining seams:

  • Lapel Break Point: Bodice Front & Facing.
  • Collar Step: Bodice neckline, Facing, and Collar ends.
  • Shoulder Match & Center Back: Mark collar neckline and center back.
  • Armhole: Front sleeve match notch.

Step 3: Grainlines, Closures & Labels

  • Grainlines: Mark straight of grain parallel to CF/CB on all pieces (see Academy page for 45° bias undercollar option).
  • Buttons / Buttonholes: Mark button centers directly on the Center Front line (not the extension edge).
  • Labels: Note Pattern Name, Piece Name, Date, Measurement Set, and Cut Quantities (Self & Interfacing).