The difference between a working draft and a production-ready pattern lies in the details.
From directional staystitching to designated seam allowances, clear visual standards eliminate guesswork on the cutting table. Follow along as we master the art of finishing patterns with the technical annotations professional garment construction demands.
Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.
Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.
Movement / DirectionThe instructions use X and Y to define direction.
X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.
Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.
While the colors in this reference sheet were chosen to illustrate the clarity of visual coding, your design standards are up to you. Take advantage of PatternMaker Pro’s Add Custom Style/Color tool to build a dedicated styling palette that matches your brand or studio workflow.
The last page of this instruction set includes a sample legend. You may want to include something similar with your pattern sewing instructions.
1Set Default Values
Neckline: 0.375" or 10 mm
Armhole: 0.25" or 6 mm
2CF Seam Allowance
Method: Individual
Select: FKCenter Front
Value: 0 Zero
3Cut CF on Fold
Select: FKCenter Front
Other Side if outside pattern.
4Neckline SA
Method: Multiple
Select: FSNeckline Fr, BSNeckline Bk
Value: Neckline Default 0.375 or 10 mm
5Armhole SA
Method: Multiple
Select: FQArmhole Fr, BQArmhole Bk, SJBk Cap Curve, SIFr Cap Curve
Value: Armhole Default 0.25" or 6 mm
6Sleeve Hem
Type: Woven
Select: SSWrist Line on sleeve
Sides: SLBack Line, SKFront Curve
Hem Depth: 1" or 25 mm
Raw Edge Turn: 0.25" or 6 mm
7French Seams
Method: Multiple
Select: FPSide Line Fr, BPSide Line Bk, SMBack Line, SQDart Ext, SRDart Ext, SLBack Line, SKFront Curve
Value: Custom
Width: 0.625 or 16 mm
8French Seam 1st
Select: FPSide Line Fr
Distance: 0.375 or 10 mm
Style: Dark Purple Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern. This is the French seam 1st stitching line.
Repeat For : BPSide Line Bk, SMBack Line, SQDart Ext, SRDart Ext, SLBack Line, SLBack Line Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve
9French Seam Trim
Select: FPSide Line Fr
Distance: 0.125 or 3 mm
Style: Orange Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern. This is the French seam trim line.
Repeat For : BPSide Line Bk, SMBack Line, SQDart Ext, SRDart Ext, SLBack Line, SLBack Line Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve Ext at Hem, SKFront Curve
10Armhole Notch Fr
Select: FQArmhole Fr
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: FDArmpit Fr
Type: Single
Notch should point to selected line.
11Armhole Notch Bk
Select: BQArmhole Bk
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: BDArmpit Bk
Type: Double
12Back Cap Notch
Select: SJBk Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: SBBicep Back
Type: Double
13Front Cap Notch
Select: SIFr Cap Curve
Distance: 3" or 76 mm
From: SCBicep Front
Type: Single
14Underarm Alignment
Select: SKFront Curve
End: SCBicep Front
Distance: Measure SMBack Line
Style: Blue Solid
Save
15CB Alignment
Select: BKCenter Back
From: BACenter Neck Bk
Distance: 6" or 150 mm
Start: 1
Style: Blue Solid
Save
16Back Grainline
Vertical
Click close to BKCenter Back to locate the top of the line.
Length: Measure BKCenter Back * .75
17Sleeve Grainline
Vertical
Click just under SACap to locate the top of the line.
Length: Measure SKFront Curve
18Stay Stitch Guide
Select: FSNeckline Fr
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Style: Black Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern.
19Stay Stitch Guide
Select: BSNeckline Bk
Distance: 0.125" or 3 mm
Style: Black Dash
Make sure this draws outside the pattern.
20Stay Stitch Fr
Select: 18Stay Stitch Guide
Arrows point to Center Front. Reduce the Arrow Size.
21Stay Stitch Bk
Select: 19Stay Stitch Guide
Arrows point to Center Back. Reduce the Arrow Size.
22Sleeve Cap Ease
Front Armhole: FQArmhole Fr
Back Armhole: BQArmhole Bk
Front Sleeve: SIFr Cap Curve
Back Sleeve: SJBk Cap Curve
Select a location inside the sleeve pattern for the notation.
23Measure Neckline Fr
Select: FSNeckline Fr
Click near the neckline.
24Measure Neckline Bk
Select: BSNeckline Bk
Click near the neckline.
25Front SA
Select: The entire solid black outline of the Front pattern.
Other Side if inside pattern.
Repeat: Back and Sleeve patterns.
26SA 1/4" 6 mm
You may wish to change the style of seam allowance lines that differ from your standard width.
Select: FQArmhole Fr, BQArmhole Bk, SJBk Cap Curve, SIFr Cap Curve
Style: Aqua Blue Solid
Make sure you also select any small connecting lines to those listed above.
27SA 3/8" 10 mm
Select: FSNeckline Fr, BSNeckline Bk
Style: Green Solid
28Clip Marks
Select: FQArmhole Fr, BQArmhole Bk
Type: Clip
These are between the seam allowance and the sewing line.
29Label Patterns
Select a location for the pattern label. Name the pattern, measurement set used, date and cutting instructions.
Repeat: Do this on the Front, Back and Sleeve
30Logo
Select: Anchor point location.
Placement: Anchor point orientation
Open: Locate the image file
Scale: Fit the logo to your pattern.
