Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro

These instructions guide you through drafting a basic, undarted bodice block (sloper) and its corresponding sleeve.

The draft is suitable for all body types, including those with and without breasts. The front and back blocks share the same basic shape; the only difference is the neckline.

Page 1
Measurements Used:
  • Center Length Back - Measure from the cervical back to the natural waistline.
  • Waist to Hip Side - Measure from the natural waist to the fullest part of the hip / seat at side.
  • Armhole Length - Measure from the cervical back to an imaginary line at the armpit level.
  • Neck - Measure around the base of the neck touching the cervical bone and the top of the front collar bone.
  • Across Back - Measure across the back at mid-armhole level.
  • Bust / Chest - Measure all the way around under the armpits, over the shoulder blades and across the bust/chest.
  • Ovearm Length - With arm slightly bent, measure from the shoulder point, across the elbow and down to the wrist.
  • Wrist - Measure around the wrist just above the wrist bone.
  • Armhole Drop - Amount to drop the armhole for design or wearing ease (shortens the side length).
  • Across Back Ease - Additional amount added to across back measurement for design and/or wearing ease.
  • Bust/Chest Ease - Additional amount added to full bust measurement for design and/or wearing ease.
  • Wrist Ease - Additional amount added to wrist measurement for design and/or wearing ease.

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern for better understanding, please visit https://PatternMakerPro.com/measurements.html.

If you are using the memorization system in PatternMaker Pro, we recommend that you include these ease variables in your formulas. This will allow you to recall the draft with different amounts of ease depending on the needs of the final style/design.

PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Sleeve Verification:

The sleeve is drafted using bodice measurements, but you must verify the fit once completed. Ensure the sleeve cap has the correct ease relative to the armhole. Select Finish > Mark Sleeve Ease from the menu to automatically calculate and check this ease for adjustment.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Page 2
Figure A Draft
FIGURE A
Figure B Draft
FIGURE B
Add Free Point Icon
Points > Add Free Point

1 Center Neck Back Create a point near the top left of your workspace.

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

2 Center Waist 1Center Neck Back
Y: {Center Length Back}

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

3 Center Hip 2Center Waist
Y: {Waist to Hip Side}

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

4 Armhole Ht 1Center Neck Back
Y: {Armhole Length} + {Armhole Drop}

Add Point from 2 Points Icon
Points > Add Point from 2 Points

5 Armhole CP Ref 1Center Neck Back & 4Armhole Ht
XY: Center

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

6 Shoulder Ref 1Center Neck Back
Y: [1Center Neck Back to5 Armhole CP Ref] / 4

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

7 Side Neck 1Center Neck Back
X: {Neck} / 4, Y: -0.4" or -10mm

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

8 Armpit CP 4Armhole Ht
X: ({Across Back} + {Across Back Ease}) / 2

Add Point from 2 Points Icon
Points > Add Point from 2 Points

9 Armhole CP
X: 8Armpit CP, Y:5Armhole CP Ref

Add Point from 2 Points Icon
Points > Add Point from 2 Points

10 Shoulder X: 8Armpit CP + 0.19" or 5mm
Y: 6Shoulder Ref

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

11 Armpit 8Armhole Ht
X: ({Bust} + {Bust Ease}) / 4

Add Point from 2 Points Icon
Points > Add Point from 2 Points

12 Side Hip
X: 11Armpit, Y: 3Center Hip

Page 3
Figure C Draft
FIGURE C
Figure D Draft
FIGURE D
Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

13 Center Neck Front 1Center Neck Back
Y: ({Neck} / 5) -0.6" or -15 mm

Reference Line Icon
Lines > Add Reference Line

14 Front Neckline Ref 13Center Neck Front, Horizontal, Extend one direction (to right)

Reference Line Icon
Lines > Add Reference Line

15 Back Neckline Ref 1Center Neck Back, Horizontal, Extend one direction (to right)

Add Layer Icon
Layers > Add Layer

Shared Outline Parent: PMP, Save & Switch

Add Curve Icon
Curves > Add Curve

16 Armhole 10Shoulder to 11Armpit Curve Points: 2 Drag the curve point closest to the shoulder over until the armhole curve runs through the 9Armhole CP. Adjust from there.

Add Line Icon
Lines > Add Line

17 Shoulder Line 7Side Neck to 10Shoulder

Add Multi Point Line Icon
Lines > Add Multi Point Line

18 Outline 11Armpit, 12Side Hip, 3Center Hip, 13Center Neck Front

Add Layer Icon
Layers > Add Layer

Front Outline Parent: PMP, Save & Switch

Add Curve Icon
Curves > Add Curve

19 Front Neckline 13Center Neck Front to 7Side Neck Curve Points: 1 Drag the curve point down toward the 14Front Neckline Ref without dropping below it.

Add Layer Icon
Layers > Add Layer

Back Outline Parent: PMP, Save & Switch

Add Curve Icon
Curves > Add Curve

20 Back Neckline 1Center Neck Back to 7Side Neck Curve Points: 1 Drag the curve point down toward the 15Back Neckline Ref without dropping below it.

Add Line Icon
Lines > Add Line

21 Back Center 13Center Neck Front to 1Center Neck Back

Page 4
Figure E Draft
FIGURE E
Figure F Draft
FIGURE F
Layer Visibility Icon
Layers > Layer Visibility

Hide Shared Outline, Front Outline, Back Outline

Layer Opacity Icon
Layers > Layer Opacity

PMP Draft Layer, lower opacity enough to be selectable but not obtrusive.

Add Layer Icon
Layers > Add Layer

Sleeve Parent: PMP, Save

Add Layer Icon
Layers > Add Layer

Sleeve Draft Parent: Sleeve, Save & Switch

Add Free Point Icon
Points > Add Free Point

22 Cap Center Put this point on the right side of the bodice, beyond the 11Armpit point. This drafts to the left.

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

23 Bicep Center 22Cap Center
Y: ([1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]) / 4 + {Armhole Drop}

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

24 Wrist Center 22Cap Center
Y: {Overarm Length}

Reference Line Icon
Lines > Add Reference Line

25 Bicep Ref Line 23Bicep Center, Horizontal, Extend one direction (to left).

Point on Line at Distance Icon
Points > Point on Line at Distance

26 Bicep From: 22Cap Center
Distance: [10Shoulder to 11Armpit] + 0.6" or 15mm, Line: 25Bicep Ref Line

Add Line Icon
Lines > Add Line

27 Cap Ref Line 26Bicep to 22Cap Center

Point on Line Icon
Points > Point on Line/Curve

28 Cap Line Pt 27Cap Ref Line
Distance: [26Bicep to 22Cap Center] / 3
Make sure this point is located closer to the bicep than the cap.
Save & Split

Page 5
Figure G Draft
FIGURE G
Figure H Draft
FIGURE H
Point on Line Icon
Points > Point on Line/Curve

29 Cap Ref Split 27Split Cap Ref Line closest to Bicep, Distance: Leave at default center. Save

Point on Line Icon
Points > Point on Line/Curve

30 Cap Ref 2 27Split Cap Ref Line closest to Cap, Distance: Leave at default center. Save

Add Point Perpendicular Icon
Points > Add Point Perpendicular

31 Cap CP Ref 1 Origin: 29Cap Ref Split
Vector: 28Cap Line Pt
Distance: 0.24" or 6mm.
Make sure this point drops below the line.

Add Point Perpendicular Icon
Points > Add Point Perpendicular

32 Cap CP Ref 2 Origin: 29Cap Ref Split
Vector: 28Cap Line Pt
Distance: 0.7" or 17.5mm.
Make sure this point drops below the line.

Add Point Icon
Points > Add Point from Point

33 Wrist 24Wrist Center
X: -({Wrist} + {Wrist Ease}) / 2

Add Layer Icon
Layers > Add Layer

Sleeve Outline Parent: Sleeve, Save & Switch

Add Multi Point Line Icon
Lines > Add Multi Point Line

34 Sleeve Line 22Cap Center, 24Wrist Center, 33Wrist, 26Bicep

Add Curve Icon
Curves > Add Curve

35 Cap Curve 26Bicep to 22Cap Center
Curve Points: 2
Drag the curve points so that the curve goes through 31Cap CP Ref 1 and 32Cap CP Ref 2