Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro

These instructions guide you through drafting a foundational bodice block (or sloper) featuring a bust dart originating at the waist. This draft requires many body measurements to create a very precisely fitted garment. This versatile block is excellent for subsequent pattern manipulation and fashion design.

This pattern draft is specifically designed to accommodate bust shaping through the use of a bust dart. Therefore, it is suitable for figures with developed busts.

This block is designed to be combined with the 003 Fitted Bodice Back Block to create a complete garment pattern.

Page 1
Measurements Used:

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern for better understanding, please visit https://PatternMakerPro.com/measurements.html.

If you are using the memorization system in PatternMaker Pro, we recommend that you include these ease variables in your formulas. This will allow you to recall the draft with different amounts of ease depending on the needs of the final style/design.

PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Page 2
Figure A Draft
FIGURE A
Figure B Draft
FIGURE B

1 Center Neck This pattern drafts from the right towards the left. Place this point to the right.

2 Center Waist 1Center Neck
Y: {Center Length Front}

3 Full Length RP 2Center Waist
Y: -{Full Length Front}

4 Across RP 3Full Length RP
X: -({Across Front} / 2)

5 Shoulder RP 3Full Length RP
X: -({Shoulder Across Front} / 2)

6 Bust RP 3Full Length RP
X: -(({Bust Front} / 2) + ({Bust Ease} / 4))

7 Across RL 4Across RP
Vertical, Extend Set Distance: {Full Length Front}
Make sure it goes down.

8 Shoulder RL 5Shoulder RP
Vertical, Extend Set Distance: {Full Length Front}
Make sure it goes down.

9 Bust RL 6Bust RP
Vertical, Extend Set Distance: {Full Length Front}
Make sure it goes down.

10 Shoulder From: 2Center Waist
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Front}
Line: 8Shoulder RL

11 Shldr Length RL
3Full Length RP to 5Shoulder RP

Page 3
Figure C Draft
FIGURE C
Figure D Draft
FIGURE D

12 Side Neck From: 10Shoulder
Distance: {Shoulder Length}
Ref Line: 11Shoulder Length RL

13 Shldr Neck Perp
Origin: 12Side Neck
Vector: 10Shoulder
Distance: -({Neck Front} / 2)

14 Shldr Neck RL
12Side Neck to 13Shoulder Neck Perp

15 Ctr Neck RL 1Center Neck
Horizontal, Extend one direction (to left)

16 Mid-Arm From: 10Shoulder
Distance: 4" or 100mm
Ref Line: 7Across RL

17 Side Waist From: 16Mid-Arm
Distance: {Shoulder Height Front} - 4" or 100mm
Ref Line: 9Bust RL

18 Armpit 17Side Waist
Y: -({Side Length}-{Armhole Drop})

19 Armpit CP RL 18Armpit
Horizontal, Extend one direction (to right)

20 Bust Ht 2Center Waist
Y: -{Bust Height Front}

21 Bust Apex 20Bust Ht
X: -({Bust Apex Front} / 2)

Page 4
Figure E Draft
FIGURE E
Figure F Draft
FIGURE F

22 Dart P1 21Bust Apex & 2Center Waist
X: Bust Apex
Adjust X: 0.5" or 12.7mm
Y: Center Waist

23 Dart P2 From: 22Dart P1
Vector: 17Side Waist
Distance: [2Center Waist to 22Dart P1 to 17Side Waist] - (({Waist Front} / 2) + ({Waist Ease} / 4))
Measuring the drafted waist less the actual waist to find the dart width.

24 Neck Int
14Shldr Neck RL & 15Center Neck RL
Save

25 Bisect Neck 12Side Neck & 1Center Neck
Extend: 24Neck Int
Length: 0.5" or 12.7mm

26 Armhole Int
8Shoulder RL & 19Armpit CP RL
Save

27 Bisect Armhole
18Armpit & 5Shoulder RP
Extend: 26Armhole Int
Length: 0.875" or 22.2mm

Outline Front
Parent: PMP
Save & Switch

28 BustDart Apex: 21Bust Apex
Stay: 22Dart P1
Fold: 23Dart P2
Direction: 2Center Waist
Dart legs will be drawn and equalized automatically.

Page 5
Figure G Draft
FIGURE G

29 Armhole 10Shoulder to 18Armpit
Curve Points: 2
Drag points so curve runs through the 16Mid-Arm and the 27Bisect Armhole. Don't drop below the 19Armpit CP RL.

30 Shoulder Line 10Shoulder to 12Side Neck

31 Neckline
12Side Neck to 1Center Neck
Curve Points: 1
Drag point down so the curve runs through the 25Bisect Neck. Don't drop below the 15Ctr Neck RL or left of the 14Shldr Neck RL

32 Outline 1Center Neck, 2Center Waist, 22Dart P1

33 Outline 23Dart P2, 17Side Waist, 18Armpit