Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro

These instructions guide you through drafting a foundational bodice block (or sloper) featuring a blade dart originating at the waist and a shoulder dart. This draft requires many body measurements to create a very precisely fitted garment. This versatile block is excellent for subsequent pattern manipulation and fashion design.

This block is designed to be combined with the 002 Fitted Bodice Front Block to create a complete garment pattern.

Page 1
Measurements Used:

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern for better understanding, please visit https://PatternMakerPro.com/measurements.html.

If you are using the memorization system in PatternMaker Pro, we recommend that you include these ease variables in your formulas. This will allow you to recall the draft with different amounts of ease depending on the needs of the final style/design.

PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Page 2
Figure A Draft
FIGURE A
Figure B Draft
FIGURE B

1 Center Neck This pattern drafts from the left towards the right. Place this point to the left.

2 Center Waist 1Center Neck
Y: {Center Length Back}

3 Full Length RP 2Center Waist
Y: -{Full Length Back}

4 Across RP 3Full Length RP
X: ({Across Back} / 2)

5 Shoulder RP 3Full Length RP
X: ({Shoulder Across Back} / 2)

6 Bust RP 3Full Length RP
X: (({Bust Back} / 2) + ({Bust Ease} / 4))

7 Across RL 4Across RP
Vertical, Extend Set Distance: {Full Length Back}
Make sure it goes down.

8 Shoulder RL 5Shoulder RP
Vertical, Extend Set Distance: {Full Length Back}
Make sure it goes down.

9 Bust RL 6Bust RP
Vertical, Extend one direction
Make sure it goes down.

10 Shoulder From: 2Center Waist
Distance: {Shoulder Slope Back}
Line: 8Shoulder RL

11 Shoulder Length RL
3Full Length RP to 5Shoulder RP

Page 3
Figure C Draft
FIGURE C
Figure D Draft
FIGURE D

12 Side Neck
From: 10Shoulder
Distance: {Shoulder Length}
Ref Line: 11Shoulder Length RL

13 Neck Point
From: 1Center Neck
Distance: ({Neck Back} / 2) - 0.125" or 5mm
Ref Line: 11Shoulder Length RL

14 Mid-Arm
From: 10Shoulder
Distance: 4" or 100mm
Ref Line: 7Across RL

15 Side RP
From: 14Mid-Arm
Distance: {Shoulder Height Back} - 4" or 100mm
Ref Line: 9Bust RL

16 Armpit15Side RP
Y: -({Side Length} - {Armhole Drop})

17 Armpit CP Ref 16Armpit & 5Shoulder RP
X: Shoulder RP
Y: Armpit

18 Bisect Armhole 16Armpit & 5Shoulder RP
Extend: 17Armhole CP Ref
Length: 1" or 25.4mm

19 Blade Ht 2Center Waist
Y: -{Blade Height Back}

20 Blade Apex 19Blade Ht
X: {Blade Apex Back} / 2

21 Dart P1 2Center Waist
X: [19Blade Ht to 20Blade Apex] - 0.5" or 12.7mm

Page 4
Figure E Draft
FIGURE E
Figure F Draft
FIGURE F

22 Side Waist Pre
Start: 15Side RP
Vector: 21Dart P1
Distance: ([
2Center Waist,21Dart P1, 15Side RP] - (({Waist Back} / 2)+({Waist Ease} / 4))) * .25
This measures the waist width on the draft and subtracts the actual waist width to determine the difference. 25% is applied here at the side waist and 75% is dart intake.

23 Dart P2 21Dart P1
X: ([2Center Waist to 21Dart P1 to 15Side RP] - (({Waist Back} / 2)+({Waist Ease} / 4))) * .75
Make sure you select the 15Side RP and not the 22Side Waist Pre point. This is the same measurement as above at 75% for dart intake.

24 Side Waist Start: 16Armpit
Vector: 22Side Waist Pre
Distance: ({Side Length} - {Armhole Drop})

25 Shoulder Apex 13Neck Point
Y: 3.5" or 90mm

26 Neckline Ref 1Center Neck
Horizontal, Extend one direction (to right)

Outline Back
Parent: PMP Save & Switch

27 Neckline
1Center Neck to 13Neck Point
Curve Points: 1
Drag the point down towards the 26Neckline Ref but don't drop below it.

Page 5
Figure G Draft
FIGURE G
Figure H Draft
FIGURE H

28 Armhole
10Shoulder to 16Armpit
Curve Points: 2
Drag the top curve point so it goes through the 14Mid-Arm. Drag the lower curve point down to the 18Bisect Armhole and reshape from there.

29 Shoulder Line 12Side Neck to 10Shoulder

30 Outline 16Armpit to 24Side Waist to 23Dart P2

31 Outline 21Dart P1 to 2Center Waist to 1Center Neck

32 BladeDart Apex: 20Blade Apex
Stay: 21Dart P1
Fold: 23Dart P2
Direction: 2Center Waist
Dart legs will be drawn and equalized automatically.

33 ShoulderDart Apex: 25Shoulder Apex
Stay: 13Neck Point
Fold: 12Side Neck
Direction: 1Center Neck