Patternmaking with PatternMaker Pro

These instructions guide you through drafting a foundational sleeve block (or sloper) featuring an elbow dart. This draft requires more body measurements to create a very precisely fitted garment. This versatile block is excellent for subsequent pattern manipulation and fashion design.

This block can be combined with the 002 Fitted Bodice Front Block and 003 Fitted Bodice Back Block to create a complete garment pattern.

Page 1
Measurements Used:

If you would like to see detailed images of each of these measurements demonstrated on a model and on a sample pattern for better understanding, please visit https://PatternMakerPro.com/measurements.html.

If you are using the memorization system in PatternMaker Pro, we recommend that you include these ease variables in your formulas. This will allow you to recall the draft with different amounts of ease depending on the needs of the final style/design.

PatternMaker Pro

Each step in the instructions includes the category and name of each tool used, as well as its icon, for easy selection in PatternMaker Pro.

Values in curly braces {Center Length Back} are selections from a measurement set used in a formula. Values in square brackets are Measure Between Points tool selections ([Measure 1Center Neck Back to 4Armhole Ht]), also used in formulas. Always be mindful of parenthesis placement to force the correct math order of operations.

Movement / Direction

The instructions use X and Y to define direction.

X is horizontal movement. A positive X value moves to the right. A negative X values moves left.

Y is vertical movement. A positive Y value moves down and a negative Y value moves up.

Page 2
Figure A Draft
FIGURE A
Figure B Draft
FIGURE B

1 Cap Ctr This pattern drafts from the center out. Place this point slightly to the right.

2 Wrist Ctr 1Cap Ctr
Y: {Overarm Length}

3 Bicep Ctr 2Wrist Ctr
Y: -{Underarm Length}

4 Bicep Bk 3Bicep Ctr
X: ({Bicep} + {Bicep Ease}) / 2

5 Bicep Fr 3Bicep Ctr
X: -({Bicep} + {Bicep Ease}) / 2

6 Elbow Ctr 2Wrist Ctr
Y: -{Elbow to Wrist}

7 Elbow Bk 6Elbow Ctr
X: ({Elbow} + {Elbow Ease}) / 2

8 Elbow Fr 6Elbow Ctr
X: -({Elbow} + {Elbow Ease}) / 2

9 Fr Cap RL 8Elbow Fr
On Vector
Vector: 5Bicep Fr
Extend on direction (draws up)

10 Bk Cap RL 7Elbow Bk
On Vector
Vector: 4Bicep Bk
Extend on direction (draws up)

11 Wrist Ref 1 2Wrist Ctr
X: 0.5" or 13mm

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Figure C Draft
FIGURE C
Figure D Draft
FIGURE D

12 Wrist Ref Line 11Wrist Ref 1
Vertical
Extend set Distance: 4" or 100cm (draws down)

13 Dart Apex 6Elbow Ctr
X: [6Elbow Ctr to 7Elbow Bk]

14 Wrist Ref 2 11Wrist Ref 1
X: -({Wrist} + {Wrist Ease}) / 2

15 Wrist Ref Circle
13Dart Apex & 14Wrist Ref 2

16 Wrist Ref 3
15Wrist Ref Circle & 12Wrist Ref Line
Save

17 Wrist Ref 4 14Wrist Ref 2 & 16Wrist Ref 3
X: Center
Y: Center

18 Wrist Ref 5 14Wrist Ref 2 & 17Wrist Ref 4
X: Wrist Ref 2
Y: Wrist Ref 4

19 Wrist Fr 18Wrist Ref 5
X: -[17Wrist Ref 4 to 18Wrist Ref 5]

20 Wrist Bk Start: 16Wrist Ref 3
Vector: 17Wrist Ref 4
Distance: [16Wrist Ref 4 to 17Wrist Ref 3]
Point draws to the right of 16Wrist Ref 3

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Figure E Draft
FIGURE E
Figure F Draft
FIGURE F

21 Dart Pt Ref Start: 7Elbow Bk
Vector: 20Wrist Bk
Distance: [7Elbow Bk to 20Wrist Bk] - [8Elbow Fr to 19Wrist Fr]
Point draws down from 7Elbow Bk

22 Elbow Fr Line 5Bicep Fr to 19Wrist Fr

23 Elbow Ref
8Elbow Fr, Horizontal, Extend both directions

24 Elbow Offset 22Elbow Fr Line & 23Elbow Ref
Save

25 Dart P1 7Elbow Bk
X: [8Elbow Fr to 24Elbow Offset]]
If 24Elbow Offset is left of 8Elbow Fr, then this point should be left of 7 Elbow Bk. If 24Elbow Offset is right of 8Elbow Fr, then this point should be right of 7Elbow Bk.

26 Dart P2 Start: 13Dart Apex
Vector: 21Dart Pt Ref
Distance: [13Dart Apex to 25Dart P1]

27 Cap Ref 1Cap Ctr & 3Bicep Ctr
X: Center
Y: Center

28 Cap RL 27Cap Ref
Horizontal, Extend both directions

29 Bk CP1 4Bicep Bk
X: -[3Bicep Ctr to 4Bicep Bk]]
Point is left of 4Bicep Bk

30 Fr CP1 5Bicep Fr
X: -[3Bicep Ctr to 5Bicep Fr]
Point is right of 5Bicep Fr

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Figure G Draft
FIGURE G
Figure H Draft
FIGURE H

31 Cap Ctr RL 1Cap Ctr
Horizontal, Extend both directions

32 Bk CR
10Bk Cap RL & 31Cap Ctr RL
Save

33 Fr CR
9Fr Cap RL & 31Cap Ctr RL
Save

34 Bk CP3 1Cap Ctr
X: [1Cap Ctr to 32Bk CR] / 4

35 Fr CP3 1Cap Ctr
X: -[1Cap Ctr to 33Fr CR] / 4

36 Bk Cap RL 34Bk CP3 to 29Bk CP1

37 Fr Cap RL 35Fr CP3 to 30Fr CP1

38 Bk CP2
36Bk Cap RL & 28Cap RL
Save

39 Fr CP2
37Fr Cap RL & 28Cap RL
Save

Outline
Parent: PMP
Save & Switch

Page 6
Figure I Draft
FIGURE I
Figure J Draft
FIGURE J

40 Fr Cap Curve
5Bicep Fr to 1Cap Ctr
Curve Points: 3
Bottom curve point to 30Fr CP1, Center curve point to 39Fr CP2, top curve point to 35Fr CP3

41 Bk Cap Curve
4Bicep Bk to 1Cap Ctr
Curve Points: 3
Bottom curve point to 29Bk CP1, Center curve point to 38Bk CP2, top curve point to 34Bk CP3

42 Bk Upper 4Bicep Bk to 25Dart P1

43 Bk Lower 26Dart P2 to 20Wrist Bk

44 Fr Arm 5Bicep Fr to 19Wrist Fr

45 Wrist Curve 19Wrist Fr to 20Wrist Bk
Curve Points: 3
Left curve point to 14Wrist Ref 2, center curve point to 17Wrist Ref 4, Right curve point to 16Wrist Ref 3. Adjust curve to gentle shape.

46 Elbow Dart Apex: 13Dart Apex
Stay: 26Dart P2
Fold: 25Dart P1
Direction: 20Wrist Bk